Flew from Canada to Taiwan then on the Denpasar via China Airlines. This airline was great in terms of service and friendliness. North American airline carriers could learn a thing or two. If one can afford to, or steal, cheat or beg to get moved up into business class as the flights are sooo long and tedious. This is our first trip to Bali and we wanted to be free to move around the island so we bought airfare only and researched hotels via the forum and books. Decided to go direct to Sanur as we heard it was quieter than Kuta and this appealed to us.
Once we arrived in Bali, we flew through customs in less than 5 minutes. No line ups unlike other forumites experience. Lucky us!! Changed some money at the airport as we waited to get to Bali to get better rates. If possible, change your money in the cities as the airport rate was slightly lower.
Cabbed it to Sanur for Rp. 35.000. The taxi stands at the airport are inflexible on the listed prices. Made our driver drop my husband and I off on the main strip so we could walk to the hotels we scouted out on the forum to barter for a good rate. Drivers always want to take you direct to the hotel so they can get a commission, especially if they know you don't have a reservation. This may cut into your rate so keep this in mind. Stayed at the Gazebo which we loved as it was quiet, not too busy, nice balinese style cottage type rooms (although the mattress must have been 50 yrs old the way we dipped into the centre) and had a wonderful restaurant located on the beach. We paid a little more here than what can be found elsewhere in Sanur if travelling on a budget but we were tired and liked the look of the place. Had a wonderful seafood meal our first night at Gazebo restaurant (Rp. 246.000) which is extravagant in comparison to standard Bali prices but it was a meal for 2 and it included lobster, crab, prawns, fish and potatoes.
Also in Sanur we liked the Bonsai Restaurant which is also on the beach. It is very reasonably priced, didn't get sick off the food and ate crab dinner for Rp. 25.000. Each dinner had 2 crabs on it!!! Amazingly cheap eats in Bali and still can't get over how little we paid for good food. Went shopping at the Sindhu beach market and was very disappointed with Tootsies as I had read on the forum that it was fixed pricing but when we where their, they did not have fixed pricing and it was only when I told them that I read that they were fixed pricing did they remember that fact and the prices suddenly dropped. Didn't like that so I saved my purchases for various other shops and one in particular which I kept going back to as the owner was so helpful and not so pushy and gave me great prices. I have her card and home and will follow up with it soon. Just as an e.x. - bought the biggest size Bali duffel bag (#5) from her for Rp. 40.000, velcro wallet for Rp. 10.000, for me these great hair sticks for Rp. 5.000, etc.
While using Sanur as our base, we found difference drivers to take us to Ulu Watu, Tanah Lot, Kuta (just to see what the fuss is), Padang Padang beach, Jimbarran and also went to the island of Nusa Lembongan for the day. Tanah Lot was very nice but didn't find the sunset there as spectacular as at Ulu Watu. The only thing I will say about Kuta is that the beach looks a lot nicer than Sanur, but after only 1 hour in Kuta, I was very happy to leave and don't anticipate going back there on any future visits (that is just based on my individual preference for a quieter holiday). If I were more into the bar scene, Kuta would be great fun.
Took the local boat (filled with mostly tourists) for Rp. 25.000/pp over the Nusa Lembongan and thought the island was very beautiful. Walked from the village where the boat drops you off down over the Mushroom Bay. Wore sandals that were filled with sand and my feet suffered for days after this trek (blisters), but otherwise the walk is very beautiful and a good way to get a feel for the island. The beach is very nice and the walk was great as you get to mix with the local people who are so friendly and see the children coming or going to school all dressed up. Since we were on an adventure we made no plans other than to just get to the island and take it from there. Found out on the boat ride that the local boat only goes from Sanur to the island in the mornings and doesn't return the same day. To return to Sanur, you have to wait until morning. We were not too concerned as it was all part of the adventure and we were prepared to find a place to stay for the night if necessary. So we hiked to the cove, ate good food and relaxed. If you are laying on the beach facing the ocean, to your right is a rock cliff with steps that lead to nice and reasonably priced accommodations used by backpackers and budget travellers. You can also access a more secluded cove by just following the path over to the other side of the rocks and down again. Hard to explain but once your their, easy to figure out.
Found a boat to take us back to Sanur the same night which is one of my favorite memories as it was the same style and size of boat and was filled with locals from the villages on the island. It was so great interacting with the families and when we arrived in Sanur it was low tide so it was great fun being part of the group helping shove and cheer the men push the boat close enough to shore.
I would have to say the only thing that tainted our holiday experience in Bali are the money changers. I read all the advice on the forum and was prepared for the worse. Good thing too b/c it is as bad as you read about. Just a note on money changers in Sanur...we had good ones and very bad ones who tried to steal Rp 300.000 from us. Be very careful. We made the mistake of trying to get the better rate, even though we asked if they take commission and they said no!!! Yeah right! They will just try to steal it then. Even though I was watching like a hawk, when one of the changers went to recount (**that is one of your warnings), he dropped money behind the counter and I didn't even see it go. My husband saw this and called him on it and sure enough when we recounted, it was short. So we grabbed our things and left. So my tips are: never hand over your money till your satisfied you have what your supposed to. Forget about trying to get the best rate as your only talking a buck or two in the end and it is not worth the frustration. Always go to money changers who have government licenses on the wall. If the money changer counts the money, lets you count, then wants to touch the money again to recount, no matter how nice and friendly he seems, he is trying to rip you off. LEAVE AND GO ELSEWHERE!!. If you are at a money changer and he has a "friend" hovering right next to you trying to get you to show him your currency and basically just talking to you to distract you...walk away and go to another money changer. We had this happen and I kept ignoring the talker and telling him to be quite because I wanted to concentrate on what was happening but to no avail he kept going at it while his friend tried to short us several hundred thousand rupiah. I have read on the forum that they are worse in Kuta and met some travellers who got shortchanged in Kuta and weren't as lucky as us to catch them in the act. If you get ripped off and go to the police, we have been told by tourists who did this exact thing, that the police will then ask or expect you to pay them some $ for helping you.
Moving on from Sanur we went to Ubud for 4 nights. I loved Ubud as it has so much flavour in terms of culture and the scenery is beautiful. Stayed at a nice but not fancy place called Ina Inn. Our room was all windows and right over the rice fields. Very picturesque. The hotel was reasonably priced (Rp. 200.000/night) incl. tax and breakfast. The breakfast wasn't anything great though and I got a slight touch of Bali Belly while in Ubud and am not 100% sure that it wasn't b/c of the breakfasts there. That didn't stop me from eating elsewhere all over Ubud. The restaurants there are great, and in my opinion the best on the island. Some of the places we had great meals at are Cafe Wayan, Honeymoon Bakery, Terazos, etc. There are so many others that I have heard about that I didn't get a chance to go to. Another great place I liked for healthy sandwiches was B&B's. Well, I loved it as I was in my bali belly phase and wanted to stick to regular/normal food that was on the healthy side. I tried their vegetarian sandwich and also their greek style sandwich (feta, kalamata olives, spinach). Both were incredibly delicious..they are all on this fresh foccacia bread and come with your choice of salad for about Rp. 25.000.
Monkey forest was fun. Bought tons of bananas at the local market and they had a feast. One word of warning on the monkeys is that they can become very aggressive once they know where your food is and have no hesitation trying to grab your bags. So be careful and don't keep valuables in a bag you take into the monkey forest and always watch your glasses. I had on prescription sunglasses and did not want to lose these so I had to be extra careful and had no problems. If you walk further into the monkey forest it is very beautiful as well.
One thing about staying on the rice field is that you will not sleep well unless you are used to roosters singing all night. Although it is somewhat amusing to hear them go off in a line for what sounds like miles away and back again from about 4:00 a.m. till dawn, it doesn't bode well for a good nights sleep. There are plenty of nice places in Ubud that aren't on the rice fields and you may want to mix it up a bit. Some are set down near the river and you are almost in a jungle/tropical forest atmosphere.
While in Ubud we went to the palace for a night of Legong dancing which was beautiful and highly recommended. I also was fortunate to be there while a cremation ceremony was underway and it was so amazing to stand on the side lines and watch. Be respectful though as it was nothing but infuriating to see some tourist continually walk right up within inches of where the bodies were placed for worship and in the middle of the ceremony and while the priest was doing his thing to take pictures. If you are that person and you read the forum, shame on you! I was hoping to see another cremation but it will have to wait for next trip.
Another highlight of our trip was going to the "6th month" celebration/ceremony at a temple about a ½ hour from Ubud that was attended by hundreds of locals. It was truly a religious ceremony which we took part in, gave an offering, drank the holy water and placed rice on our forehead and felt the spiritual nature of balinese cutlure and life. I am greatful to Kadek our balinese friend who took us and it will always be one of my favorite memories. Their near the temple area, there was Legong dancing put on not for tourists (as out of hundreds, I only saw a dozen or less non-balinese) but for the local children. Remarkable to see in this context. Also the local music and vendors selling to locals was all part of the package. Truly an extraordinary evening.
Also in Ubud - loved Zen Spa. The atomosphere, ambiance and prices for a spa are great. Try the Mandi Lulur and the cream bath. My husband & I did Mandi Lulur's together in the same room and then were told to soak in this amazingly scented flower filled tub overlooking the field. Very romantique.
Shopping for wood, art, etc. in and around Ubud is most recommended. One of my best friends from home who spends 2 mos. In Bali each year and who was living in Ubud doing her business shopping, so my husband bought tons at her business prices while he went touting around on our rented motorbike/moped (this is a whole other story) while I was staying near the pool and our hotel room during my bali belly phase. Wished we bought more and more...so cheap and the carvings are so beautiful.
From Lovina, drove through Kintamanie down to Lovina where we stayed for 3 nights. Lovina is very quiet and food is at best, standard after having left Ubud's fine restaurants. Snorkelled in Lovina. My husband loved it, the fish were beautiful but being a terrible boat person, even after a 15 boat ride out, the sea sickness got the better of me while my husband paddled around wondering why there were so many fish around..(they enjoyed my breakfast, they do not like watermelon though!!)
Our last few days were spent back in Sanur relaxing and reflecting on our adventure and what we want to do next time we come back now that we have been hooked.
We were planning to go to Amed but had to modify plans after a slight motorbike incident. After going to Bali for our very first time and leaving with so much to still see and do, we have already started to plan our return for the same time next year. I could go on and on as I have only touched on the briefest of things but will save it for another time.
Anything specific, feel free to ask.
C & J.